Why we do we…

Snapper Rocks Day 1: Why do we… Surf… Skim, Wakesurf. Whatever… The brain runs in circles, one thought chasing the other looking to connect the dots and barely missing each time. How do we even start to explain? Is surfing a sport? Do we suck satisfaction from the competition of battling another human for each natural gift that sweeps along the shore? Or is it the sport of man vs. nature? Our very own Bear Grylles battle each and every paddle. The mystery of the ocean, the science of calculating a swell window and matching the weather forecast, to find the perfect time to fight. The eternal fight of localism thrown into the sport of it all. An unfamiliar break, and the mental and physical fury it takes to find yourself alone on a wave. You’ve won the first round, but now you must prove yourself. Hell, maybe we do surf for the sport of it all… Is that it though? It seems short winded to say it’s simply the sport, so we look for the brain to find another runner to chase. Aha! The art… We caught you, you… you open-ended, eye of the beholder magician. Do we surf because of the freedom we have to release our creative side by dancing with the waves in a spiritual manner? Is it the poetry of it all, sliding smoothly through one of mother nature’s most astonishing and endless gifts? Each wave a blank canvas, nearly limitless to the painter and the poet for all or nobody to enjoy. It makes no difference what your critics say about how you’ve expressed yourself, art in its’ truest form. Or do you? We’re guilty of caring about the audience at times, and we are no lessor to be happy to admit it. Though with that fear we still paddle out, open to the criticism, making our creativity known to the strangest of strangers and the closest of friends. To be free from those cares could be the secret to happiness we imagine. Or is that just it? The freedom… do we love surfing because of the freedom it allows us. Alone or with 100 of our most excited strangers, we’re free in the water. Free from our devices, free from our vices, and in love with the time away from responsibility. There is something to say about disconnecting, especially in 2022 and beyond. That very well could be what drives us to love to surf, but to be honest at different times it’s all of the above and so much more. Surfing comparably to golf is so much more mental at times than physical. We simply feel blessed to be able to paddle out, and even more so do it with close friends, or in meeting strangers. Every session is an unknown and that in of itself is exciting. Just as starting a business and entrepreneurship is a dive off a diving board into murky unknown waters, ever surf session brings excitement and the unknown. Luckily for us we knowingly love the absolute life out of getting in the water. We at Let’s Party! Hope your next session is filled with good waves. Smile at your fellow frothers, make some friends and keep up the love of surfing, skimboarding, wake surfing, boogie boarding, whatever it is. All Love Always, Steve Taylor - Head Party Animal Location: Top of Snapper Rocks May 16, 2022
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